Micro Brasserie du Chamonix

My first French brewpub! It’s owned by a Canadian guy, but still, it’s in France, and maybe he’s French-Canadian… Anyway, after the Netherlands, I headed south to Gstaad, Switzerland, where two climbing friends of mine are now living.  I tagged along with them on a weekend jaunt to Chamonix.  They went climbing, but my shoulder was bugging me, unfortunately, and so I went on a couple of spectacular day hikes, instead.  Yes, it’s a rough life I lead.  My friends mentioned the Micro Brasserie du Chamonix (MBC), and so of course that got my vote for post-climbing/hiking beer/dinner on Saturday. MBC was out of its Blanche des Guides brew (my friends’ favorite), but I got to try the other five on tap, including a seasonal. They have a good veggie burger, too, which went down fast after a long day of hiking. After four or five weeks of European beers, it was comforting to find a place that made the kind of beer I’ve grown accustomed to in Seattle. As far as alcohol percentages go, all the MBC beers are 5%, conveniently enough.

MBC tasters

Little tasters at the MBC — Chamonix, France

    Rob’s Picks

  • Blonde de Chamonix – Nice and light, with honey flavor. Not so bready, but good balance with light hops. Quite bubbly, goes right down. Great post-hike beer.
  • Granite de Pale Ale – Nice full-bodied pale ale. Big maltiness, but not too big. Hints of caramel. Good hoppiness in the aftertaste.
  • Dark Vador – Their bock, but doesn’t have that bock-y malty sweetness I don’t particularly like, although it does have a malty taste to it. Fairly smoky, too. More like a porter.
    The Rest

  • Stout des Drus – Sort of a watery Guinness, but not bad. Dry smokiness, not too heavy. The problem with a Guinness-like stout is that I always compare it to a Guinness…
  • Seasonal (Snowslayer Ale?) – A light ale. No honey flavor like the Blonde, a bit more watery, and a slight caramel flavor. A little odd.

As I was typing up this post I finally realized that the MBC acronym sounds like “embassy,” and their logo features those letters in a Canadian maple leaf, so I suppose this place is basically the unofficial Canadian embassy.

Brouwerij De Keyzer

I have to say that Brouwerij De Keyzer is hands down the winner of the strangest brewery tour I’ve ever taken. At first I was all excited when I found out there was an old brewery (established in 1758) right in the town of Maastricht, and they gave a tour every Saturday. So I signed up, even though it’s only given in Dutch, figuring the international language of beer would be easy to understand, especially with all the brewing equipment around. As it so happened, that didn’t quite turn out to be the case.

The tour started at the tourist information center building and had three or four stops along the walk to the brewery, during which the guide gave long explanatory speeches about local landmarks or history or what he had for lunch. I don’t know because I don’t speak Dutch. But we finally made it into the De Keyzer building, and we stood in the inner courtyard as he gave yet another long speech. But there were a few things to distract me: an old beer barrel transportation device, some hop vines on a wall, an old dog lying in the sun. Then we went back outside and entered the adjoining building. The ground floor was empty except for a few benches and some brewing-related photographs on the walls. The guide then stood in front of us and gave another long speech. To his credit, as he talked, the Dutch folk taking the tour would periodically laugh, so he wasn’t just droning on and on.

After the long explanation of the brewing process, or perhaps an amusing re-telling of how his cat had stolen the family car, we headed upstairs to the top floor. The second floor was empty except for a couple old boring artifacts, like shovels. The third floor had an old device in the middle, but otherwise it was empty. The top two floors were pretty much empty. The guide gave long speeches on each floor. It was, in a word, baffling. Where was the brewery? I thought I had signed up for a brewery tour. You’d think someone would have mentioned that there’s no actual brewery in this brewery tour. A few nice folks on the tour tried to translate bits and pieces for me, but there wasn’t much point, as far as I was concerned. It had become something else, something bizarre. I would just have to go along for the ride and hope it would end soon.

The tour did actually pick up a little at the end when the guide took us into a room off the inner courtyard and switched on the old pulley-driven mash tun, and when we were in the room with all the various old bottling machines that look like torture devices, and finally at the beer tasting. They have two beers (who brews it and where is still a mystery to me), and I was able to get a full bottle of the one that I liked. So that was something.

double saison

De Keyzer’s Double Saison, with snacks — Maastricht, Netherlands

    Rob’s Pick

  • Double Saison – 6.5% – Not much of an aroma. Flavor pretty subtle. Dark in color but light in taste. Subtle maltiness, subtle alcohol, quite enjoyable.
    The Rest

  • Troublette – 5.5% – wit bier – Kind of sweet, light, with a bit of coriander flavor. Sweetness builds up, need to drink this with food/snacks. Lots of spices in the recipe. Seems to be brewed for Brasserie Caracole.

There were a bunch of Germans in the brewery, too, getting their own tour in German. If an English-speaking tour had then come through, I would have been pretty annoyed.

Oudaen Brewpub

This brouwerij and restaurant has a prime location above the Oudegracht and seems to attract more of a professional clientele. There were lots of suits and loosened ties while I was there. The beer is similar: clean, smooth, doesn’t take chances. So it’s a great place to unwind after a busy day at the office. I stayed at the bar, which is the way to go — the bar staff were pretty cool.

Oudaen had five taps going: three year-round beers, one seasonal, and the fifth was Gemeente Pils, which was tap water — a brewery with a sense of humor — always a good thing.

Oudaen sampler

Oudaen sampler — Utrecht, Netherlands

    Rob’s Picks

  • Lentebock – seasonal – 6.8% – Quite nice for a bock. Not the usual malty sweetness. Caramel and alcohol flavors. Like a light tripel. Better after it warms up a little.
  • Linteloo Gold – 5% – Brisk little lager. Light, maybe a touch watery, but with a slight bitter floral edge. Hoppiest of the three regulars. Good summer beer.
    The Rest

  • Jonge Daen – 5% – Kristal/Weizen – Also light, but with a citrus-y edge. Good summer beer.
  • Ouwe Daen – 5% – Wheat – Very light. I think I sense a pattern here. Not very bready, but with a slight honey taste. This is their most popular selection. Good summer beer.

I have to say, it’s kind of nice to visit breweries that only make a few beers. Makes it a lot easier to get through a sampler set.

Brouwerij De 7 Deugden

My Dutch brewery tour continues, this time with Brouwerij De 7 Deugden (7 Stars Brewery). They did their first bottling in March, so they are Amsterdam’s newest brewery, although Veenhuizen’s Maallust is slightly newer. Heard about these two via a colleague of Rene’s, the beer connoisseur Harry Pinkster, whose web site details all the Dutch breweries and beers he’s tried. I also found out via his site that I basically walked right by Brouwerij Zeeburg while meandering around the neighborhood near the IJ Brewery. Doh!

7 Deugden is not as centrally located as the others, and especially not as De Prael, a brewpub located smack dab in the city center that was unfortunately closed April 26th to May 26th in order to move to a new, bigger location, just around the corner from its original spot. But it was a pretty straightforward trip to 7 Deugden’s west Amsterdam location. Tram 17 to its second to last stop, then a mile north along Osdorperweg, which starts as a bike/pedestrian path but becomes a regular road, with the same name conveniently enough. You can also take tram 13 to its end, but you have to wander through some neighborhood streets and then hop on a bike path through the fields for a bit. Straightforward or adventurous, your pick.

The owner spent time in Colorado and brought back a few experimental ideas with him. He’s still tweaking the recipes, so basically your mileage may vary if and when you try these. Nice folks at 7 Deugden — I wish them much success.

De 7 Deugden

Tasting a beer at De 7 Deugden — Amsterdam, Netherlands

    Rob’s Picks

  • Wijs+Neuzig – 5% – (Wise and Nosey) Spicy aroma, light in color. Immediate zing, then mellows to a nice maltiness, with a bit of a hoppy finish. Slight tart edge. Really fun summer beer.
  • Stout+Moedig – 7.5% – (Stout and Bold) Very dark color. Sweet, strong aroma. Thicker than the others. Initial sweetness to good coffee flavor, then nice smokiness. Can still taste the malty base. A Dutch stout.
  • Dubbel+Dik – 7.5% – (Dubbel and Fat) This might be my favorite dubbel so far, which isn’t saying much, mainly because it’s not as sweet as the other dubbels. I think it’s pretty good, but folks who like the regular dubbels probably won’t like this one…
    The Rest

  • Arm+Zalig – 5% – (Poor and Glorious) Made with juniper berries. They add a little something to the subtle aroma and give a nice balance to the malty sweetness. But a little too light and watery on the tongue for me.
  • Scherp+Zinnig – 5% – (Sharp and Sensible) Fruity aroma. Light, but a fuller taste than A+Z. Good hoppiness. It’s a chili pepper beer, but this batch didn’t have enough peppers, so the spiciness is very, very subtle, although it’s more present in the aftertaste as it builds up. Does add a slight edge to an otherwise lightly bready blond. Still tweaking the recipe — first batch was way too spicy, apparently, but next batch will kick it up a bit. Probably would’ve been a Pick if it had been spicier.
  • Scheepsrecht – 8% – (hard to translate, sort of “third time hits true”) Tripel made with cloves. Strong clove aroma and taste. Blends really well with the caramel flavor. Very drinkable, too, but the clove taste became a bit too much for me. A little less clove and this would be great.

They do not yet have logo glassware, which I suppose is good for me. Carrying around one glass through Europe is one glass too many — two glasses would be even worse. I did manage to travel around Patagonia with three glasses at one point, but I like to think I can learn something from past experiences. Guess I’ll see how well that holds up…

Brouwerij ‘t IJ

This Amsterdam brewery has been around since the 80s, is located at a windmill, and brews up organic beers. And with a name like Brouwerij ‘t IJ, I just had to visit. They had five beers on tap and one more in a bottle, so it was good I had all late afternoon and early evening to relax with a sampler tray and a small plate of sheep cheese from a local farm where the sheep are fed the spent grain from the brewery. I wanted to ask if they had a file on the particular sheep that produced the milk and if that sheep was happy, had sheep friends, but I didn’t think they’d get the Portlandia joke.

The brewery is open only from 3:00 to 8:00, and they do a free tour Fridays at 4:00. I showed up on Thursday so I just got to drink beer. There were a few folks already enjoying a brew in the sun when I arrived around 5:00, and it just got more and more crowded until it was basically standing room only when they closed.

brewery at the windmill

The very photogenic Brouwerij ‘t IJ — Amsterdam, Netherlands

    Rob’s Picks

  • Plzen – 5% – Bready, slight honey flavor. Good bitterness. Not too light. A good beer.
  • Zatte – 8% – Their Belgian Tripel style. Nutty, smooth, and really nice. Darkest in color of the five on tap.
  • Columbus – 9% – Tastes kind of like a tripel. Complex sweet caramel, strong alcohol, but with a slight spiciness. A beer to drink slowly.
    The Rest

  • IJWit – 7% – Sweeter and smoother than the Plzen. Lemony flavor. Reminds me of a thicker Hoegaarden. Vaguely oily on the tongue, which was interesting.
  • Natte – 6.5% – Less nutty, more sweet, lighter in color than the Zatte. This is their dubbel. Still looking for a dubbel that I really like…
  • Strius – 9% – bottle – Much more like the Belgian dubbels I’ve had. Pretty bock-y, with that sweetness I’m not so fond of.
IJ sampler

Sampler tray at the IJ — Amsterdam, Netherlands

Turned out they had two different logo glasses for sale. A full-size glass and a smaller taster-size glass. I gave in to temptation and bought the small one. It’s small — so it’s not nearly as crazy as carrying around Europe a large glass for a month. I’m just carrying around Europe a small glass for a month…

Maallust

Got out to a cool new Dutch brewery called Maallust. Unfortunately it doesn’t translate to “bad lust,” which might be appropriate for the Netherlands. Maal means mill, a grain mill, to be precise, and lust is merely liking to do something, in this case mill grain. Bad Lust sounds much more fun, though. Anyway, they’ve been open for about a month or so and have three beers they sell. It’s a small place so that might be it for their beer offerings for the next hundred years or so. Erin, Rene, and I made the trek to the UNESCO-recognized prison museum in Veenhuizen where the brewery is located to check them out. It’s a beautiful building they have, so I hope it’s successful.

Maallust beer selection

The three beers made by Maallust — Veenhuizen, Netherlands

    Rob’s Picks

  • Vienna – Vienna via the Northwest, apparently. Reminiscent of Mac and Jack’s African Amber. Kind of bock-like, but without that bock-y sweetness I don’t like.
  • Blond – Interesting flavors. Bit of maltiness, bit of spiciness, not as light as I expected. Definitely grew on me. A nice surprise of a beer.
    The Rest

  • Weizen – Bit of honey aroma and taste at first. Good breadiness, light on the tongue. Good bubbliness. A fine summer beer, I initially thought. The more I drank, however, the more apparent a green olive taste/aroma became. Hopefully they’ll fix that.
shiny shiny

Shiny new brewing gear at Maallust — Veenhuizen, Netherlands

Maallust had two different styles of glasses available for purchase. This time I gave in to my bad lust for logo glassware and bought the skinny one. I left it with Erin and Rene. When they get around to traveling out to Seattle they’ll bring the glass with them. Works for me. Maybe I can convince them to visit De Halve Maan and Cantillon, too.

happy happy

Me enjoying a Maallust beverage — Veenhuizen, Netherlands

De Halve Maan

Another town, another brewery. De Halve Maan has been brewing in Bruges since 1856, and only recently introduced their fourth beer. The brewing scene in Europe is a bit less fast-paced than in the U.S., apparently. De Halve Maan is a popular place — the 45 minute tour was packed. Unfortunately, they only had two of their beers on tap, and after those I really needed to get other things done. Maybe I can find the Straffe Hendriks in bottles elsewhere before I’m done with this trip.

The tour was really enjoyable. We scrambled around throughout the entire building, even getting on the roof at one point. The guide (Andrew?) was funny and energetic and imparted a whole lot of information in a very entertaining way. I was impressed.

Update! – I did find one of the Straffe Hendriks beers, at one particular restaurant in Maastricht, which solved the problem of deciding where to eat dinner that night. 4/20/11: Thought I wouldn’t be updating this again until my next trip to Europe, but the Quad showed up on tap at Pine Box in Seattle a couple months ago.

moon logo

Moon logo by the brewery entrance — Bruges, Belgium

    Rob’s Picks

  • Brusge Zot – 6% – Their blond ale. Good golden color and cloudiness. Lovely bready taste with sour edge. Fairly complex taste but very drinkable.
  • Straffe Hendrik Tripel – Good strong-tasting tripel. Sweetness balanced by the alcohol taste. Pretty light on the tongue, actually.
  • Straffe Hendrik Quadruple – 11% – Floral aroma. Floral hop flavor mixed with strong caramel and a bit of alcohol flavor. A touch of anise, too. Fairly light on the tongue, and very drinkable.
    The Rest

  • Brusge Zot Dubbel – 7.5% – Very different from the blond. Darker, sweeter, less sour tasting. Sort of a Belgian bock. Good, but a bit too sweet for my tastes — this gentleman prefers the blond…
brusge zot

A glass of Brusge Zot — Bruges, Belgium

De Halve Maan also had logo glassware for sale. Argh! All these cool glasses just slipping through my fingers. I’m hoping to bring home some sort of glass from Europe. Maybe from Switzerland…

Brasserie Cantillon

Hey, it’s a brewery post from Belgium!  I’m in Europe for six weeks, visiting some friends, seeing some sights, and sampling some beer. Cantillon was mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide, and I’d read about it in a Belgian beer-centric travel article. So I was looking forward to the visit. They were closed because of Easter when I went by on Monday, but it was business as usual on Tuesday. Cantillon Brewery has been mixing up the lambic since 1900, and still use a bunch of the same equipment since day one. From the informational handout, it looks like they do nine different brews (all based on lambic), but I only sampled three of them. They were quite nice, I thought.

glass and bottles

My Cantillon taster with a selection of their bottles for sale — Brussels, Belgium

    Rob’s Picks

  • Gueuze – A mixture of one-, two-, and three-year old lambic. Really sour! Taste is intense, but hard to describe. Kind of malty. Fascinating.
  • Kriek – Cherries in lambic. Cherry aroma not too strong, but flavor a good complement to the lambic.
  • Rosé de Gambrinus – Raspberries in lambic. Very strong raspberry aroma, but flavor’s not too strong — mixes well, though.
Cantillon

Outside the Cantillon Brewery — Brussels, Belgium

old skool mash tun

Antique mash tun that they still use — Brussels, Belgium

cooling tun

I’d never seen a cooling tun before. This is where the magic (i.e. the spontaneous fermentation) happens. — Brussels, Belgium

barrel fever

The lambic ferments in these barrels in the attic of the brewery for three years — Brussels, Belgium

steam clean

Steam cleaning an aging barrel. The shiny chain hanging from the post is another part of the cleaning process. — Brussels, Belgium

aging gueuze

Bottled Gueuze aging to perfection — Brussels, Belgium

brewery cat

Don’t want to know what sort of beer this will be… (this was actually an old barrel being used as a table in the tasting room that the brewery cat seemed to like) — Brussels, Belgium

They also had various logo glasses for sale. This was frustrating — I didn’t want to carry around glassware with me for six weeks, but I could’ve had a lovely Cantillon tulip glass! Mon Dieu!

Big Time Brewery

Winter’s over, and so are the short bike rides to local brewpubs. Instead, my friend and I hopped on a bus to South Everett and took a long bike ride to the otherwise local Big Time Brewery. Stayed mostly on bike trails, too — the Interurban to the North Creek to the Sammamish River to the Burke-Gilman. Hadn’t gone on a ride in a month, and so Big Time was a welcome end to the 30 mile ride.

Update! February 15, 2012: I tried Whiny the Complainer, their Pliny the Younger consolation brew, when I was at Naked City, and while I don’t usually include beers tried outside of the brewery or brewpub, I’ll make an exception here, because how can I not include a beer named Whiny the Complainer? May 12, 2013: A few more beers at other bars (including the 2013 Whiny release at Pine Box) as well as a visit or two to the brewpub.

Big Time Brewery

Sampler tray at the Big Time Brewery and Alehouse — Seattle, WA

    Rob’s Picks

  • Whiny the Complainer 2013 – 10.8% – Floral aroma at first, but with an alcohol component as it warms up. Floral hop flavor predominant, but plenty of herbal/spicy/bit-o-citrus hops going on, too. Good strong malt backbone and edgy caramel finish. Gets better as it warms up!
  • Lift Ticket Winter Ale – 7% – Dark hoppy amber. Spicy nose. Mix of caramel and herbal/spicy hop flavors. Crisp with a good bitter balance.
  • Dark Days Cascadia Dark Ale – 6.3% – Thick for a CDA, but its rich roasty maltiness and strong hop profile (five different hops) make it a luscious beer. Good bitter bite, too.
  • Makisupa Stout – 6% – Really creamy and smooth. Great chocolate flavor with a subtle touch of rye. (Flaked rye and oats in addition to a bunch of malts.) Nice undercurrent of alcohol flavor and bitterness.
  • Maine Thing Pale Ale – Solid maltiness with caramel notes and great hoppy balance.  Good lingering northwest pale ale finish ;)
  • Trombipulator Belgian Trippel – Good caramel/alcohol balance.  Coriander flavor, too.  Strong malty base.
  • Old Rip Oatmeal Stout – Good thick stout.  Strong coffee flavor, slight alcohol edge, somewhat dry finish.
  • Whiny the Complainer 2012 – 9.1% – Triple IPA. Good hoppy IPA. Piney and malty, with an unfiltered fullness. Nice spiciness on the tongue and subtle citrus/grapefruit flavor.
  • Prime Time Pale Ale – Good caramel flavor. Somewhat hoppy, but not particularly so. Smooth and very drinkable.
  • Coal Creek Porter – 4.5% – Nice! I like the smokiness. Coffee and chocolate flavors not overpowering — great balance. Yum!
  • Sunbreak Blonde – seasonal – 4.1% – Light and citrusy, not too bready. Great summer beer.
  • Big Dance Imperial Amber – seasonal – 8.1% – Strong taste with great caramel flavor. Dance party in your mouth!
  • Hop on Pop Imperial IPA – seasonal – Least floral of the three IPAs on tap. Smoothest, too. Really nice. A good full-bodied IPA.
  • Breakfast Cereal Killer Oatmeat Stout – seasonal – Mmm, so thick and creamy and smooth and chocolatey and coffee-y. A great meal.
    The Rest

  • Millennium Falconer Pale Ale – Citrus aroma.  Citrus/floral hoppy start, though it’s heavier on the floral side.  Good maltiness.  Bitter finish.
  • Atlas Amber – Big caramel flavor, but not too interesting to me. Fairly typical amber.
  • Bhagwan’s Best IPA – 5% – Very floral, good hop bite, but too floral for me.
  • Scarlet Fire IPA – seasonal – 6.4% – Not quite as floral as Bhagwan’s Best, more complexity to the flavor. Interesting.
  • Saison Grisette – seasonal – Very light, with a slight sour Belgian taste. Pretty good, but a little lacking in body for me.
  • Buck Mulligan’s Dublin Stout – seasonal – 4% – Nitro pour. Smooth and light, but a bit watery and slightly sour. A very, very different stout than Breakfast Cereal Killer, but not in a good way…

I made an effort to take a better picture this time. Hope you like it.

Harmon Brewing

Back in January a cousin of mine and his wife moved from Boston to Tacoma for all the obvious reasons, and I’d been meaning to meet up with them. Then one of his brothers came up to the Puget Sound area for a few weeks, and that seemed to be the tipping point for taking the long trek to T-Town. The initial plan was to hit the Harmon brewpub, but soon after we arrived, the evening’s entertainment, a fairly standard bar band, cranked up their amps and started playing, making conversation basically impossible. Kids these days, with their loud rock music! No wonder they’re all deaf! Anyway, the staff directed us to the Tap Room, another location in Harmon Brewing Company‘s burgeoning south sound beer empire, and away we went. Turned out to be a smaller place, but they didn’t do sampler trays, and as soon as we sat down, they cranked up the stereo. Those meddling kids! I shook my cane at the waitstaff, and they thankfully turned down the volume from 11 to something that allowed us to talk to each other. These kids, with their “smarty-phones,” they don’t talk to each other anymore, they just beep-beep-boop-boop on their sexting and the Twitters. I don’t understand it. At least they’re still drinking. So where was I? Oh yeah, the Tap Room didn’t do sampler trays, nor sell logo pint glasses. Crazy! Between the three of us who were drinking that evening, we were able to sample all ten of the beers they had on tap, mostly through periodic requests for tastes but also occasional pints. And then we found out Sundays at the Tap Room are half-off everything. Combined with two free pizzas because they managed to mess up the first order, and it was a very inexpensive night, indeed. Good times.

my worst beer picture

Not even Photoshop can save this awful picture — Tacoma, WA

    Rob’s Picks

  • Point Defiance IPA – 5.8% – Kind of mellow for an IPA but tasty and very drinkable. Not particularly crisp, but it’s smooth.
  • Mt. Takhoma Blonde – 3.8% – Lemony aroma, and slight lemon taste. Very light and drinkable, not too fizzy, not too bready. All around, pretty good.
  • Puget Sound Porter – 5.4% – Good solid porter. Slight chocolate flavor. No fancy vanilla stuff (see below). Pretty crisp, too.
  • Vanilla Porter – seasonal – Awesome aroma: chocolate/coffee/alcohol — very Kahlua-ish. Tastes pretty good, too. Has a lot going on — chocolate with a bitter edge. Noticed the vanilla more in the aroma than in the taste, actually. It’s a porter that makes you think, but not in a bad way.
  • Bourbon Oak Winter Warmer – seasonal – Really nice. Smooth, dark, not very heavy, doesn’t taste strong. Yum!
    The Rest

  • Pinnacle Peak Pale Ale – 4.2% – Strong floral hoppy bite at first, then mellows to nice breadiness. Pretty decent.
  • Brown’s Point ESB – 5.6% – Very smooth, not very hoppy, bit of breadiness. Their description says, “full-bodied amber.” I agree.
  • Banana Hammock Blonde – seasonal – Another f’n banana beer. Strong banana aroma, but banana flavor is not as strong as El Jefe, thankfully. Can actually get a light fizzy beer taste at the end. Still not my thing.
  • Cream Cicle Pale Ale – seasonal – Cream soda aroma. Orange taste comes through. Kind of odd. Not my thing, again.
  • T-Town Brown – seasonal – No Tacoma aroma, thank goodness. Basically smells and tastes like an alcoholic root beer. Another odd experiment.

I have no excuse for the terrible picture I ended up taking. It’s like I wasn’t even trying. Managed to tart it up a bit in Photoshop, but still, it’d probably be better to leave this post picture-less. Oh well.

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