Canoe Brewpub

After some much-needed washing up at the hostel, I headed out on a short bike ride to Canoe Brewpub for dinner and, of course, a sampling of all their beer.  Their full name is Canoe Brewpub, Restaurant and Marina, but that’s a bit too much of a mouthful for me.  They were pretty busy (it being a sunny, warm evening probably didn’t hurt), but there were a few open stools at the bar for losers like me out on a Saturday night by themselves.  The building was pretty slick, and the crowd was pretty well-heeled — a little more upscale than what I’m used to.  Or maybe I’m just spoiled by how casual Seattle is.  Then a charity event started featuring a local band, and I suddenly wished I’d brought along some earplugs — they played the standard, loud, bar rock.  Made for an easy decision about whether to stick around and have a full pint of something or head to the next place.

Canoe Canoe?

A “fleet” of samplers at Canoe Brewpub — Victoria, BC

    Rob’s Picks

  • Beaver Brown Ale – 5.4% – Good dry brown with some chocolate and coffee flavors.
  • River Rock Bitter – 5.2% – Floral aroma. Big floral hops, malty, and a bit sweet. Very drinkable.
    The Rest

  • Red Canoe Lager – 5.2% – Light and sweet with a touch of floral hops, but not as crisp as I’m used to. Bit of a bitter finish.
  • Siren’s Song Pale Ale – 5% – Hoppy aroma. Somewhat bitter, but balanced by maltiness and breadiness. A bit watery, though.
  • Southern Cross IPA – Made with Australian hops. Very floral, though not as big as the River Rock. Darker in color but lighter in body. A bit maltier, too. Pretty smooth. Floral bitterness lasts a while.

They didn’t have any logo glasses in stock, unfortunately (the bartender even went searching through the store room for several minutes), so I’ll be re-visiting at some point.  Maybe for lunch, though, or disguised in some khakis.

Hoyne Brewing

I could say it was a short bike ride from Vancouver Island Brewery to Hoyne Brewing but most of the Victoria breweries are short bike rides from each other, conveniently enough.  I could also say that the folks working at Hoyne were super friendly and cool, but that pretty much applies to the other Victoria breweries, as well.  Hoyne had the smallest taproom, though, so that’s something that sets them apart from the others, and it made for a fun, cozy tasting.

Taps at Hoyne Brewing

Taps at Hoyne Brewing — Victoria, BC

    Rob’s Picks

  • Hoyner Pilsner – 5.5% – Subtle breadiness, subtle sweetness. Really refreshing and light.
  • Summer Haze Honey Hefe – 5.1% – Honey from Empress Hotel. Subtle sweetness. Not too bready, but more so than the Pils.
  • Dark Matter – 5.3% – Really good Dark Ale.  Nice and dry with coffee flavor. Very crisp, too.
  • Down Easy Pale Ale – 5.2% – Piney aroma. Piney flavor with light malty base. Would be smooth, but piney-ness makes you think. Nice!
  • Devil’s Dream IPA – 6% – Strong piney aroma. Great piney hoppiness, subtle maltiness, and really crisp. Pretty intense.

And yes, they had logo glasses for sale.  At the rate I was going, I’d soon be biking around with ten or eleven beer glasses in my panniers.  Not ideal.  So instead, I wrapped up the first five as well as I could, carefully stuffed them into my friend’s backpack, and he then ferried them back to Seattle via the Clipper later that afternoon.  I owe him a few beers for that.

Vancouver Island Brewery

After camping at the Sooke Potholes, my friend and I biked back along the Galloping Goose to Victoria, with only one stop to pick fresh blackberries growing right by the trail. The fourth day (for me) of Bike Tour 2012 was beautiful but hot, and we were quite thirsty by the time we reached Vancouver Island Brewery. A tour had started moments before we rolled our bikes into the taproom, but rather than join the group we decided just to do a tasting session. (There was a bit of  a time crunch — we wanted to visit one more brewery, as well as get something to eat, before my friend’s return trip to Seattle on the Clipper.)

Vancouver Island Brewing

Taster at Vancouver Island Brewing — Victoria, BC

    Rob’s Picks

  • Beachcomber Summer Ale – Crisp and bubbly, with banana/clove flavors and good bready finish. Nice balance of flavor.
  • Piper’s Pale Ale – English style pale. Very smooth and creamy. Subtle hoppiness, lingering maltiness. Really solid.
  • Hermann’s Dark Lager – Great dry and coffee-flavored ale. Light body, but solid.
    The Rest

  • Spyhopper Honey Brown – Not so brown. Nice honey sweetness and somewhat malty, but a touch watery. Pretty light.
  • Sea Dog Amber – Malty, slightly sweet. Very smooth and well-balanced, but not too interesting to me.

Full disclosure: I’d been to Vancouver Island Brewery once before, way back in 2003 or so. I showed up a few minutes before they closed for the day, however, and only had enough time to buy a tiny logo taster glass — didn’t even get to try any of their beer. It felt good to get that corrected, finally.

Phillips Brewing

Several days before the bike tour, I did some internet sleuth-work to plan out a schedule of Victoria brewery visits, and Phillips Brewing got the luck of the draw for first.  Fellow beer-biker Jonny took the Clipper from Seattle while I took the Coho from Port Angeles, and, after meeting for brunch at Shine Cafe and taking care of a few pre-ride details, we pedaled on over to their tasting room.  Super nice folks working at Phillips, and they told me about two brewpubs that my brief searching hadn’t found.  This weekend in Victoria would be busier than I thought.  In between the steady stream of customers coming in for growler fills, we managed to taste all the beer they had on tap.

Phillips Brewing

The taproom at Phillips Brewing — Victoria, BC

    Rob’s Picks

  • Phoenix Gold Lager – Bready aroma. Bit of alcohol flavor, a touch sweet, and bright on the tongue. Great summer beer.
  • Slipstream Cream Ale – Not too creamy, but smooth, and also kind of bright. Pretty similar to the Blue Buck but with a bit of creamy flavor.
  • Hop Circle IPA – Big citrus aroma. Good citrusy hoppy flavor, but not too big. Underlying bitterness, and a little bit of maltiness to balance. Pretty drinkable.
  • Longboat Chocolate Porter – Big chocolate aroma. Good dry chocolate flavors, and nicely thick on the tongue. Quite drinkable.
    The Rest

  • Blue Buck Pale Ale – Really smooth, not too aggressive. Kinda malty, with a bit of alcohol flavor. Sort of a bigger bodied lager. Their best selling beer and quite popular in Victoria.
  • Raspberry Wheat – Raspberry aroma. Light raspberry flavor, nicely tart. Somewhat dry, but in a slightly watery way, oddly enough.

Some people like to mix the Raspberry Wheat and the Longboat Chocolate Porter, which in theory I can understand, but when I tried it there, it didn’t click for me. Ah well. Phillips also has plenty of logo glassware and shirts and whatnot for sale, and so of course I had to get a glass. Settled on a smaller one, though, and then biked by the hostel where I’d be staying the next night and stored it and the two Port Angeles logo glasses before we galloped off on the Goose.

Peaks Brewpub

As soon as I walked into Peaks Brewpub I felt like I’d found a real Port Angeles bar. Fairly dark, lots of goofy sayings and vintage starlet pictures decorating the walls, a no-frills menu, wooden chairs from the 70s or 80s.  I would say it had a blue-collar feel, but the ten house-made microbrews on tap is not the sort of thing I’d expect to find in a blue-collar joint.  A few locals were around, but as I made my way through two sampler flights and a plate of nachos, there was a fairly constant stream of first-timers — folks just passing through Port Angeles, to or from Victoria or along Highway 101.  I guess Peaks is in the guidebooks.  “For an authentic taste of Port Angeles, be sure to drop by Peaks Brewpub and sample one of the delicious local beers!  The owner, Ed, is a real character!”  Or some such.  Ed recently opened Twin Peaks Brewery to increase production but still seems to be working out some kinks and getting used to the bigger size.  Hopefully he’ll get that under control soon.

Peaks Brewpub

Hard-working samplers at Peaks Brewpub — Port Angeles

    Rob’s Picks

  • Elwah Silt Extra Pale – Nice little pale ale. Pretty mellow — nice balance of malt and hoppiness. Not so silty.
  • Dungeness Spit Pale – Bigger than the Elwah Silt. Caramel flavor, with underlying bitterness. Very subtle floral hoppiness.
  • Ed’s Big Ass Red – 10.5% – Good caramel/alcohol/malt flavor balance. Pretty smooth, too.
  • Peaks LSB – Lincoln Street Bitter. Little sweeter than the Dungeness Spit Pale. Nice bubbliness, with a good zing on the tongue. Prominent caramel flavor, with a bit of nuttiness, too. Very drinkable.
  • Mt. Pleasant Porter (nitro) – Smooth chocolate/coffee/bitter mix. Nice and mellow.
    The Rest

  • Port Angeles 150th Anniversary – Raspberry Fog Ale – Bit of raspberry aroma, but pretty strong raspberry flavor. Slightly tart with a bit of maltiness.
  • Train Wrecked IPA – A mild IPA but drinkable. A bit sweet but interesting. Maybe more of an east coast IPA…
  • Mother-Pucker – After talking with a local homebrewer sitting next to me, it seemed like I’m the only person who has thought the Mother-Pucker was pretty good, but I’m a sucker for a sour, although this one was not as sour as I would’ve liked. Pretty mellow with a light malty tartness. I think the only other malty sour beer I’ve had is the Big E Ales Sour Dark Ale, which was way better than the Mother-Pucker, so it’s rounding out The Rest rather than being a Pick.

Took me a while to get through all eight samples, but fortunately that meant the streets were pretty empty as I pedaled my way back to the hostel.  All I would then have to do would be wake up early enough to make the 8:15am ferry to Victoria…

Barhop Brewing

The first brewery visit of Bike Tour 2012. The ride into Port Angeles from Sequim on the Olympic Discovery Trail was pretty awesome, although the strong headwind got old quickly. All the folks biking east were smiling, however. The last stretch that takes you into town is right along the water — a much more scenic entry to Port Angeles than on Highway 101. Really very pretty — almost made up for the headwind. My original plan was to follow the Waterfront Trail all the way to the end of Ediz Hook, but by the time I reached the downtown area, I was too hungry and thirsty for that kind of completist stubbornness. Instead I snarfed down some happy hour fish tacos and a pint at the Next Door Gastropub (no Fathom & League on tap, unfortunately), then walked around the corner to the Barhop Brewing taproom.

Barhop Brewing

Sampler flight at Barhop Brewing — Port Angeles, WA

    Rob’s Picks

  • Redneck Logger Pale Ale – 5.4% – Somewhat sweet, pretty crisp, slight lemon/breadiness.  Drinkable and refreshing.
  • PA 7 Pale Ale – 7% – Interesting — kind of lager-y. Slight alcohol flavor, bit of honey sweetness. Subtle hoppy bite. Slightly spicy on the tongue.
  • FnA IPA – 6.2% – Citrus aroma. Good strong citrus hoppiness, but not a flavor blast — it builds up. Bit of an alcohol edge. Pretty light on the tongue. Almost creamy, but also almost watery — unfiltered aspect balances it out, though.
    The Rest

  • Loser Dog Summer Brown Ale – 6.1% – Definitely a brown, with some coffee notes. Really light on the tongue, interestingly enough. Sweet roasty maltiness with some honey flavor. I’d prefer the Redneck Logger as my summer beer, though.

Friendly folks in the taproom, and they have a decent little bottle selection of other Washington beers, as well as a tap for their friends at Dungeness Brewing. The production brewery, which is currently located just outside of town, will be combining with the taproom and moving to a brand new location a couple blocks away. The woman working there said it’d happen in September, but these things always seem to take longer than expected — I’ll keep my fingers crossed for them. Next time I’m in Port Angeles I’ll definitely check in and see what’s new.

Bike Tour 2012

Bike Tour 2012

Beginning of Bike Tour 2012, aboard the Soundrunner ferry from Seattle to Kingston

Back in 2009, I went on my first bike tour, a five day scenic route to the San Juan Islands via Port Townsend.  A friend of mine came up with the itinerary, and I added three breweries that fit the logistics (Port Townsend, Water Street, and San Juan).  Since then I’d been thinking about another tour, and when a number of factors all fell into place — a contract job ended, the weather was great, there was a convenient ferry running from Seattle to Kingston, and I found a friend who would join me for two days in the middle — I quickly got my gear together and hopped on the bike for a six day trip:

  • Day One: Soundrunner passenger-only ferry from Seattle to Kingston (to be discontinued end of September, unfortunately), bike from Kingston to Dungeness Spit Recreation Area next to Sequim, camp.  This would be the longest day.
  • Day Two: Continue along the Olympic Discovery Trail from Sequim to Port Angeles, find a cheap room for the night.
  • Day Three: Black Ball Ferry to Victoria, bike the Galloping Goose trail to the Sooke Potholes, camp.
  • Day Four: Bike the Galloping Goose back to Victoria, stay in the Ocean Island Hostel.
  • Day Five: Bike the Lochside trail to Sidney, camp at McDonald Park (part of the Gulf Islands National Park).
  • Day Six: Ferry to Anacortes, bike to Mt Vernon, Amtrak back to Seattle.

For the brewery-visiting portion of the bike tour, there were, in theory, 16 places I could have explored.  The following are the ones I missed.  The others will all eventually appear as individual blog posts.

  • Fathom & League Hop Yard – Sequim, WA – Found a growler of their Krabben Kölsch at the Red Rooster grocery but didn’t buy it because of the bike-unfriendly size.  It was also on tap at the Alder Wood Bistro, but by the time I’d set up my tent at the Dungeness Spit campground I didn’t want to bike back into town.
  • Dungeness Brewing – Port Angeles, WA – Tiny brewery who have a tap at Barhop, but I didn’t get to visit their operation.  Their Jalapeño IPA at Barhop was really good, but I’d prefer to try a few more of their beers and have some semblance of a brewery visit before writing up a post.  Their web site leaves a lot to be desired.
  • Lighthouse Brewing – Victoria, BC – Production-only brewery, but they’re hoping to have a taproom open before the end of the year.
  • Driftwood Brewing – Victoria, BC – Production-only according to their web site, but word on the street was they had just opened a taproom for growler fills.  Didn’t really have time to find out, though.
  • Moon Under Water Brewpub – Victoria, BC – Showed up before 10pm Saturday night, but they’d closed early because of lack of customers.  Uh oh.  I hope they’re still around next time I visit Victoria.
  • La Conner Brewing – La Conner, WA – Just didn’t have enough time between Anacortes Brewing and North Sound Brewing.

So, the final tally for Bike Tour 2012 came out to:  6 days, 3 ferries, 2 countries, 10 breweries.  Not bad.

Lantern Brewing

Lantern Brewing is one of those tiny, one-person, nano-breweries that I thought I’d never get a chance to visit.  So when I saw Lantern announce an improptu open house as part of the Phinney/Greenwood Summer Streets outdoor block party program, I quickly searched for their street address, finished up the sampler flight I was enjoying at Reuben’s Brews, and was soon back on my bike, pedaling away and looking for the least steep route up to Phinney Ridge.  There was an considerable amount of family-friendly fun to be had in the several blocks of closed off street, but I headed directly to the brewery — gotta keep my priorities straight.

Lantern beer lab

The beer lab at Lantern Brewing — Seattle, WA

    Rob’s Picks

  • Pale Ale – 5.5% – Crisp, dry, and light, but still malty and bitter. Interesting. I’m used to heavier pale ales.
  • Witbier – 5% – Light and refreshing. A little apple-y. Fairly complex mouthfeel — bit of spiciness on the tongue. Really drinkable. Very clear, but Chris wants it to be cloudier.
  • Abbey-Style Tripel – ~8% – Subtle banana/clove aroma. Subtle caramel and banana/clove flavors, with nice alcohol notes. Not the tripel I’m used to, but light and pure.
  • Abbey-Style Dubbel – ~6.7% – Again, pretty light, but that helps balance the malty sweetness. Pretty crisp. Not the usual heavy dubbel.
  • Stout – 5.5% – Alcohol aroma. Sweet alcohol/coffee/brown flavors. Pretty light and dry for a stout, but heavy flavor-wise. Pretty cool beer!

Lantern’s producing an impressively wide range of mostly Belgian-influenced beers on a very small system.  Hopefully Chris will be able to expand his capacity and increase access to his fine brews to more than the Phinney neighborhood stores, restaurants, and farmers’ market.  Then again, having such a neighborhood-centric brewery is pretty cool (although I’d prefer it if Lantern were in my neighborhood, instead…).

Reuben’s Brews

Shortly after my little ride to Elliott Bay Brewing, I came down with a very annoying and lingering sore throat, which really cut into my biking and drinking time. After a week and a half, I caved and saw a doctor, who kindly prescribed me some antibiotics. Rather than heeding my brother’s advice of gargling acid, or some such, I started on the course and several days later felt well enough to get back in the (bike) saddle. A short ride seemed in order, and so I headed for the brand new Reuben’s Brews in Ballard. By strategically missing their grand opening earlier that week, I was able to sample their Imperial IPA, which just went on tap. At least, that’s how I console myself.

Update! May 12, 2013: I was driving through Ballard several months after my first visit and after some random turns, saw the Reuben’s Brews sandwich board on the sidewalk, which reminded me that I’d been wanting to stop by again. The owner Adam remembered me, surprisingly enough, so I guess I should make a point of visiting more often.

Reuben's tasters

Shiny new beer at Reuben’s Brews — Seattle, WA

    Rob’s Picks

  • Doubloon’s India Wheat Ale – 6.9% – Floral aroma. Nice floral hop flavor with creamy mouthfeel and subtle breadiness. Bitter finish. Bit of subtle citrusy sweetness too. Really drinkable.
  • Imperial Oatmeal Stout – 8.4% – Chocolate/coffee aroma and flavors. Slight alcohol edge on start, then flows to chewy chocolate/coffee finish.
  • Red – 5.4% – Smooth and malty, with good caramel flavor. Subtle floral hoppiness. Quite drinkable.
  • Imperial Rye IPA – 8.4% – Floral aroma. Sharp floral/grapefruit/piney hoppiness with smooth rye base and some caramel maltiness. Some lingering bitterness. Pretty compelling.
  • American Rye – 5.4% – Lemony/rye aroma. Light citrusy flavor and slightly spicy on the tongue. Good bitter edge, and quite drinkable.
  • American Brown – 5.9% – Slightly darker than the Roggenbier, with a coffee aroma. Surprising citrus blast with the coffee/chocolate flavors, with an underlying bitterness. Lingering grapefruit and coffee flavors. Very interesting.
  • Imperial IPA – 9.4% – Pretty intense and lingering citrus flavors, good malty backbone, and a nice bitterness. Doesn’t taste like 9.4% — pretty cool.
  • Robust Porter – 6% – Chocolate/coffee aroma. More chocolate than coffee flavors, and fairly creamy. Subtle bitterness. Pretty thick for a porter but very drinkable.
  • Dry Stout – 4.9% – Chocolate/coffee aroma. Roasty coffee flavor with bitter edge. Somewhat creamy, somewhat dry. Really interesting mix of flavors and mouthfeel.
    The Rest

  • Belgian Pale Ale – 5.7% – More clove than banana aroma and flavor. A bit creamy. Pretty nice, but not sure I’d go for a whole pint.
  • Roasted Rye IPA – 7% – Floral/citrus hoppiness and malty sweetness, plus caramel, with rye base. Very interesting. Some lingering bitterness. Kind of a dubbel/IPA hybrid.
  • Roggenbier – 5.3% – Malty/banana/clove aroma, and nice brown color. Malty sweet and banana/clove start to dry brown finish. Creamy smooth. Interesting, but a bit too sweet for me.

As I was finishing up the tasters and trying to decide which one to have a full pint of, I checked Twitter and saw that Lantern Brewing (a tiny nanobrewery) was hosting an open house that evening as part of the Phinney/Greenwood Night Out. So I settled up instead and started pedaling to the second brewery of the evening, wondering just how long of a night this was going to be.

Elliott Bay Brewing

I can’t remember the first time I went to Elliott Bay Brewing in West Seattle. It was after I started collecting logo glassware, but before I started scribbling down my tasting notes. They didn’t sell glasses then — the bartender said they had a mug club, but it was full. That’s about all I remember from that visit. Years later, the 2008 brewery tour went to the Burien location, where we got a pretty cool tour and I finally got a logo glass. Then quite by accident in May 2012 I ended up at their new Lake City Way brewpub, but the only thing I drank was water. So I’d been to all three of their locations but hadn’t yet done an “official” visit. And then my little job ended a bit early one warm late July afternoon, and as I walked home I decided a short bike ride to West Seattle was just what I needed.

Elliott Bay tasters

Hoppy flight at Elliott Bay Brewing — Seattle, WA

    Rob’s Picks

  • Hop von Boorian – Hazy golden color. Kinda sweet, with bit of banana/clove flavor and good bitterness. Nice balance.
  • Anniversary Ale #15 – Slight floral aroma. Light and a bit hoppy, slightly sweet, somewhat bitter.
  • Demolition Ale – Grapefruit citrus hoppiness with good malty base. Quite smooth, with lingering bitterness.
    The Rest

  • Hop Harvest Fresh Hop IPA 2012 – Light citrusy aroma. Grapefruit flavor and bitter. Solid maltiness but just too bitter for me. Some sugary sweetness on the finish, but doesn’t really go well with the rest of beer.
  • Elliott Bay Dry-Hopped IPA – Somewhat floral, with some caramel sweetness. Lingering bitterness. Maybe a little too light on the tongue for me.
  • No Doubt Stout – Chocolate aroma. Good dry chocolate/coffee flavor. Not too thick. Pretty good, but something about it just gave me doubt. Hard to put my finger on it.

They had eleven or twelve beers on tap, but I stuck with the one flight of tasters in order to get home at a reasonable time. I guess I’ll just have to check out one of their other locations again to fill out this post some more.

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